The Right Skincare Routine For Every Age
Let’s first start by saying that skincare is unique. If my advice doesn’t work for you, that’s totally fine. These aren’t strict rules and you can totally change it up. Remember that your needs might also be different (regardless of your age) from the “average” consumer, so you have permission (which you didn’t need in the first place!) to listen to your skin first and foremost. Plus, refrain from comparing your skin to your friends’ and know that what you use might also differ.
The goals of skincare for every decade vary. Initially, you're preventing and protecting. Later on, you target specific concerns to reduce and correct.
I hear confusion from many of my clients about what they should be doing because they’re turning 30 (or 40, 50, etc). I don’t think that much has to change, and like one of my favorite Instagram derms, Dr. Ranella Hirsch has said, don’t throw everything out because of a milestone birthday. If things are working for you and you like what you see, stick with it. If you want to make a change because you're looking for improvements, then yes, let’s do that. But not because of your birthday. Instead, go out and celebrate life!
TEENS
Oh the struggle. The most common complaint during adolescence is acne. Hormones are having their moment and your skin is suffering the consequences. In this case, treating the acne is the goal. If it's mild acne, a gentle salicylic acid face wash might help. Because this is likely to cause dryness and irritation, moisturizing is also important. Keep your skin barrier healthy! To prevent scarring, make sure you're using SPF. If the acne is more serious, consulting a dermatologist will be ideal.
If acne is not a concern (lucky you!) then there isn't really much to focus other than to enjoy your youth (please also enjoy if you have acne! This doesn’t define your worth or your beauty). However, starting any habit takes time and if you're a visionary you will start to protect your skin with SPF. This is probably the only thing I would say would be ideal at this stage in life (although if you're using SPF, I highly recommend washing your face with a gentle cleanser).
20s
Get the basics down: cleanser, moisturizer, SPF. Get to know your skin: is it oily, dry, combination? Based on this, find the appropriate products and start building the habit of caring for your skin. Start to form the rituals you enjoy.
Prevention is the biggest player of the game here. SPF is your best friend and if you want to save yourself money and stress in the future, this is key.
You can also start introducing antioxidants: a good vitamin C serum can be a great option, but other ones will also work.
Late 20s
you can also start to play around with gentle exfoliants (and by play, I mean in a responsible and gentle way, supervised by an adult 😂). Something like a mild glycolic acid, lactic acid, or salicylic acid
A key component to any skincare routine? Self-love. It doesn’t come easy for everyone, and it can be especially difficult during your teens and 20s (I know it was for me). If you haven’t already, start working on it.
30s:
Continue what you've been doing since the last decade. Or start doing. No shame if you're still unclear about your skin and what to use (I get it, it's overwhelming). In that case, refer to the above.
If your skin has a hard time retaining oil and water (typical as we mature), adding some glycerin or hyaluronic acid heavy products can help.
Eye cream? If the area around your eyes bother you and you want to add some extra layer, go for it. Nothing is a hard rule in skincare (except SPF).
Stronger exfoliation might be better handled at this stage. If the acids you've been using still work, keep at it. Otherwise, look for another AHA that targets your concerns better (it might be the same glycolic acid, but a higher concentration or a different delivery system).
Start thinking about retinoids. Is it an absolute must? Nothing is. But if you're beginning to notice signs of aging, this is the OG. Caveat: if you're pregnant, trying to get pregnant, or breastfeeding, avoid. And consult with your doctor.
Have you stopped SPF? I hope not.
40s:
Your cleanser might be due for a review. Are you still using the same one from your 20s? Is it not too drying? It's still an important part of your routine, but consider what might have changed in the last few years. (The same one might still be working, and if that's the case, ignore me please).
Most of your focus will now be to correct damage from early years and reduce any concerns you have. Your antioxidant serum is still your BFF. Either vitamin C, resveratrol, vitamin E, green tea, etc. And if you haven't gotten around to retinoids, now's a good time.
Retinoids might not ever make it to your routine, and that's ok (there are many reasons: you don't believe in them, you prefer other products, you're a rebel). But if the reasons is that they irritate you, know that there are options (you can always use a product with less concentration or a derivative that is less irritating).
Hydration is still a thing (and will always be). Make sure your moisturizer is a good one. An oil can also add an additional oomph.
Eye cream? Same as before.
50s:
There's not much innovation after a certain point. I'm tempted to group together the next five decades, but it feels rude and hopeless. I will say that the same concepts are relevant but that there are limitations to what topical products can do.
Your skin will likely need even more moisture. As we mature, it has a harder time locking in moisture and oils. Continue loading with ingredients such as ceramides, glycerin, niacinamide, urea, hyaluronic acid, and squalane.
Your serums continue to play an important role in your skincare: antioxidants, exfoliants (AHAs) and retinoids. Similarly to your 40s, you want to be correcting and focusing on specific areas of concerns to you (good quality dark spot product, good quality fine lines and wrinkle product, etc). But let's be clear, it should always be good quality.
SPF.
An eye cream might start to feel more relevant, mostly because of dryness in the area. But it’s forever optional!
60s:
Continue using your topical products AND keep practicing self-love. If you're not loving what you see, consult a cosmetic dermatologist. But I challenge us all to begin changing our preconceived ideas of mature skin. What do the fine lines around your mouth tell you? Are they gentle reminders of all the laughs you've had over the years?
Skincare is still a time to connect with yourself. Putting yourself down every time you look in the mirror is not beneficial (I'm not saying you do this, but if it's the case, how can we change the narrative?)
SPF. And everything else, of course.
(Everything else: cleanser, antioxidants, moisturizer, retinoids, AHAs, SPF)
70s, 80s, and 90s (and beyond?)
Sorry I ended up grouping them. I’m repeating myself and this post is already quite long.
Is skincare still playing an important role in your life? I hope it is but only as part of a ritual that continues to help you water self-love.
If you're still concerned about your skincare routine, you've probably been doing this for a long time and so you know what to do. Again, there's no miracle product. But there is the joy of being with loved ones and doing what brings your happiness. That's what I aspire to focus on at that age.
But hey, moisturizer and SPF are still important!
P.S.
This is by no means an exhaustive list of guidelines. There are plenty of other ingredients that you can add or switch for at any point
Always focus on targeting your specific skin concerns and needs (check out this post that goes into more details about dark spots, acne, fine lines and wrinkles)
Practice self-love. Just as important as any topical product. There’s no “miracle in a bottle” and no such thing as perfect skin
SPF. SPF. SPF. (in case I wasn’t clear)