Build Your Skincare Routine Like a Pro
Skincare can be as complicated or as simple as you desire. For simplicity, the basic routine includes a cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF. Once you have these down, you can take your skincare to the next level. But remember it's not a competition and more doesn't always mean best. If what you're doing right now is working for you, then stick with it!
The next step would be to identify your skin concerns:
Are you noticing dark spots?
Have you started developing new fine lines and wrinkles?
Are you dealing with acne? Have you cleared your acne but now figuring out how to deal with scars?
Have you developed melasma?
Of course, each of these concerns can be an entire post on its own as there are so many factors to consider. Plus, there's literally something unique for every skin concern and many ways to treat. Also, these are only a few conditions, you can be dealing with other ones as well. Depending on the severity of your condition, over the counter products may or may not be enough and you can always find additional support through your derm.
Lets do an overview of the most common skin concerns based on the above questions
Dark spots:
Also referred to as brown spots or age spots. These typically occur on the face, chest, hands, and arms, mostly because of damage from the environment (areas that are often exposed to the sun's radiation - hint, hint, use SPF!).
For topical treatments, you want to incorporate skin brightening ingredients into your skincare. Using serums, gels, or creams with retinoid or hydroquinone can help fade dark spots. AHAs, azelaic acid, and niacinamide will also help brighten as well as inhibit skin pigmentation
Prevention is key, so additionally to your SPF you can include antioxidants like vitamin C and ferulic acid
There's a slight difference between traditional dark spots and melasma. Melasma is also a hyperpigmentation condition but it's more hormonal than environmental (although environmental factors such as heat can trigger as well). The treatment is similar for topical products, so the above can also help in treating this.
If topical products are not leading to the desired results, there are treatments you can get with professionals:
Chemical peels: these will help with skin resurfacing by exfoliating the skin deeper. There are different types of peels that vary by ingredients and depth. Examples include salicylic acid, glycolic, or tretinoin. Some procedures mix different brightening acids as well. Depending on the depth you can expect some shedding of the skin, but this might not always be the case.
Laser treatments: IPL and Fraxel are common treatments that target dark spots.
Acne
Acne is a very complex condition and can have many adverse consequences on our emotional wellbeing. There are many different causes that may be playing a role and many different treatments that can lead to great results. However, keep in mind that acne is becoming more understood as a chronic condition. It can definitely be managed and controlled, but it doesn't mean that it will go away forever. Also, the causes vary and once you've identified one and addressed it, another trigger may arise.
I understand the frustration of dealing with acne as a lifelong victim myself. But remember that you are so much more than just your acne and that with trial and error, and some patience, you can definitely achieve results.
I'll do a more in-depth post on why acne happens and a more in-depth look at the treatments, but below is a summarized overview. If you've been dealing with acne for a long time and haven't achieved results, please consider talking to a skin care professional or a derm to help guide you!
The most common ingredients to look for when treating acne are benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, AHAs such as glycolic, mandelic, and lactic acid, azelaic acid, and the OG retinol. Any of these can be in your face cleanser, your moisturizer, or additionally in serums or gels.
You don't want to overdo it with acne treatments because they can be drying and irritating (which is detrimental and can actually exacerbate the acne).
When dealing with acne you also don't want to skip your SPF since exposure to the sun can lead to scarring, which is harder to treat. If you are dealing with scars, you can approach the treatment similarly to having dark spots.
Additional treatments when topical products are not enough:
Light therapy (LED)
Oral medications such as antibiotics, hormonal therapies (for example birth control), and isotretinoin (Roaccutane)
Fine lines and wrinkles
I'm not a fan of the term anti-aging . I completely understand why we want to prevent aging and though I can go more in-depth about my issues with this, you can read more on a recent post I did on Instagram here!
But in general, when we see products targeting aging concerns, they're often helping reduce fine lines and wrinkles, or pigmentation (discussed above as dark spots).
The biggest ingredient that also has the most amount of scientific data behind its efficacy is retinoid and all of its derivatives. From OTC ones (Retinyl esters, Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Adapalene) to prescription ones (Tretinoin, Isotretinoin, Tazarotene). There are many factors to consider when thinking about incorporating this to your routine, but it all comes down to how much can your skin tolerate and how much will you protect your skin from potential side effects.
Antioxidants are also important when looking for rejuvenation: think about vitamin C, vitamin E, resveratrol, green tea, etc.
Peptides: this is also very popular in products targeting aging, however, there's less conclusive data. Efficacy depends on the type of peptide, with the most results driven being Pal-KTTKS (also known as matrixyl).
Bottom line…
You might have noticed that the ingredients used to treat these skin concerns are all similar and even overlap. This is why you often only need one additional product to achieve the results you're looking for.
There are also many products that combine more than one ingredient in their formulation. I think this is the best to reduce steps and avoid getting overwhelmed.
Once you've identified the biggest areas of concern for you, select the ingredients that will best address this and find a product that contains it (or them). This can be in your cleanser, your moisturizer, or as an additional step adding a serum or gel.
Also, if I hadn't made myself clear up to this point about the importance of sunscreen, let me spell it out for you again. SPF IS KEY. Any of the conditions above can be worsened by sun exposure. So you might be doing everything right and spending money buying the right products and treatments, but if you're not protecting yourself against the sun, then you're wasting your time and money.
Here’s an example routine for someone who is concerned with dark spots in her early 30s. She already had the basics down (cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF) and wanted to indulge a bit more in her routine:
AM
Splash her face with water (I don't usually recommend washing face with cleanser in the AM unless you're extremely oily and it's a gentle wash)
Hydrating vitamin C serum (which also has ferulic acid and other antioxidant derivatives like green tea)
SPF
PM
Gentle gel cleanser
Glycolic and malic acid serum
Moisturizer
There are so many variations to her routine. She could add a retinoid (she's breastfeeding and looking to conceive again soon, so contraindicated in her case); her moisturizer could have other AHAs and thus she might skip the glycolic serum; or instead of a serum she could use a toner with similar AHAs.
Resources:
The Skincare Bible: Your No-Nonsense Guide to Great Skin by Dr. Anjali Mahto
Milady: Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary by M. Varinia Michalun and Joseph C. DiNardo