Popular Skincare Ingredients
Ingredients are a popular topic of conversation. Several brands have put the spotlight on sole ingredient products in an attempt simplify skincare (I see you, The Ordinary). And I do think it's important to familiarize yourself with ingredients to make more informed purchases. I think it's valuable to know what different ingredients do and what their benefits are, so you know what to look for depending on your skin goals.
However, having products that just have one ingredient actually makes skincare MORE complicated because you end up with more products. Most ingredients work best when they’re combined with other ingredients that boost their properties, compliment their function, and bring varied benefits.
As consumers have gotten more educated (which is great and what I hope to help with as well), some have taken this to an extreme and often task themselves with becoming ingredient police. Everyone wants to know about percentages and ingredients list. But the reality is that products are quite complicated, hence why chemists are required to formulate them. Formulators know what they’re doing, so my approach is to let them handle that.
My advice? If a product is achieving the desired results, keep using it. Does it matter if the concentration of the main ingredient is less than what you think it’s needed? If it’s delivering it's promise, I don’t think so. So educate yourself on the benefits, uses, and types of ingredients so that you can look for the right products for your skin. But don’t think that you have to memorize any of this, no one is quizzing you. And if they are, send them my way!
The following is a (overly simplified) breakdown of the ingredients I most often talk about and refer to, which are quite common and easy to find across formulations
This list is mostly comprised of what some people call performance/active ingredients (intends to stimulate or enhance normal mechanisms of cellular repair). Active ingredients change the structure or function of the skin, although this is a kind of a risky definition since most over the counter products can't really claim to do this, per regulatory norms. But it's just easier to describe them this way.
You don't need to be using all of these, so avoid FOMO. Focus on finding those that work for you that address your concerns. Remember that what may work for one person might not work for another, our skin is very unique.
Exfoliants
Our skin naturally sheds dead skin. The buildup of such can lead to clogged pores and a reduced ability for your new skin cells to function properly. As we mature, our skin loses its capacity and this process slows down. There are two main ways to help your skin achieve this process:
Physical exfoliation:
Also referred to as manual, this method uses external devices (like a cleansing brush) or harsher scrubs (think old school apricot scrubs). I'm not personally a fan and would almost never recommend this to anyone. There are newer scrub products that are gentler on the skin. Also, some might consider using a washcloth to remove your cleanser a physical form of exfoliation. This is the only time I practice physical exfoliation, but I make sure it's a very soft and gentle cloth and I use a clean one every night
Find it: traditionally, scrubbing grains made of plastic were used in products to create scrubs. Nowadays, it's more common to find products with natural materials such as sugar, salt, pumice, jojoba waxes.
Chemical exfoliation:
Another way to aid your skin cell turnover is through chemical exfoliants. There are different types:
AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids): this type of chemical exfoliant includes glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, citric acid, and mandelic. The difference will be in the size of the molecule, and thus how irritating they are. From glycolic being the smallest one and mandelic the largest.
Usage: the benefits will depend on each one, but overall, they're used for concerns regarding hyperpigmentation, fine lines and superficial wrinkles, and softer, suppler skin with improved hydration. They can also help with acne, and are often preferred for this because will be gentler
Find it: you will see any of these (and often a combination of several of them) in any type of product, but most commonly in your cleanser, toner, serums, masks.
BHAs (beta hydroxy acids): another popular chemical exfoliant that helps remove excess dead skin cells in the pores (sebaceous follicles). The most common BHA is salicylic acid, which is antimicrobial, antiseptic, and anti-inflammatory. It can be irritating and drying
Usage: most typically used for treating acne. However, because of its exfoliating properties, it's also often used for treating aging-related concerns, such as hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and texture of the skin
Find it: also easily found in different formats, but mostly on cleansers (even body washes), toners, serums, gels
Polyhydroxy acid: this is a less common chemical exfoliant, but wanted to mention it because it seems to be getting some attention recently. They're being referred to as the new generation of AHAs. The two main ones are gluconolactone and lactobionic. They're probably the mildest type compared to AHAs and BHAs, which means less irritation. But they're still effective and a great option for those who AHAs don't work
Usage: same as AHAs without the irritation (or less!). They can also be more moisturizing (it's confusing, I know) and help strengthen the skin barrier (always beneficial)
Find it: similarly to AHAs and BHAs
Enzymes: these are proteins used in skincare for different reasons. As an exfoliant, they're used to boost the activity of naturally occurring enzymes in the skin that are responsible for the surface exfoliation of dead cells by breaking intercellular bonds. The common one is papain, which is derived from papaya.
Usage: I love products with enzymes as they can be highly effective without the irritation for improving texture, reducing hyperpigmentation, and diminish scars
Find it: they can be in literally any formulation as they have many functions, but I love it in serums or masks
Azelaic Acid: another underrated exfoliant, although it seems to be getting more attention recently.
Usage: reduce the appearance of blemishes, even out skin tone, improve skin texture, and can even reduce sensitivity. It's a great alternative for pregnant women dealing with acne and other skin concerns. It's also anti-inflammatory. And antioxidant. Hold on, taking a break to go buy some for me!
Find it: serums, masks, gels, cleanser, and creams
Anti-oxidants
Ah, who hasn't seen them all over? Another important category in skincare, which slows down, prevents, and blocks oxidation caused by free radicals (aka skin's enemy). Some of the most common ones are vitamin C, green tea, vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, glutathione, idebenone, superoxide dismutase. You'll usually find more than one in the same product as they work best together
Vitamin C: probably the OG of antioxidants as it has been highly researched. But it can also be irritating and difficult to stabilize, so finding a good product is important. There's a lot more to say about this one, but let's keep it simple. There are different variations used in formulations, including ascorbic acid (the most researched one), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucosamine, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Usage: it helps stimulate collage and thus reduce fine lines and wrinkles, reduce and prevent hyperpigmentation
Find it: because it's such a popular ingredient, you can now find it everywhere. But for the most benefits, I suggest using it in a serum
Green tea: another very well-researched antioxidant. Usually listed as camellia sinesis, but if it's in the product, you'll probably be informed.
Usage: Along with being used for aging-related concerns, it can also be very soothing and reduce swelling
Find it: same as vitamin C
Vitamin E: an incredible ingredient because of its multifunctional properties. It's a great antioxidant, yes, but it also serves as a preservative.
Usage: besides fighting free radicals, it's also helpful in reducing the loss of water from the skin which helps keep it moisturized
Find it: it's very often found together in formulations with Vitamin C and/or green tea (and other antioxidants), but can also be found in a variety of products (because of its benefits but also because of the preservative function)
Ferulic acid: a plant-derived anti-oxidant and free-radical fighting ingredient.
Usage: most often used in combination with vitamin C and vitamin E to improve the stability of the formulas and improve the photoprotection of the products
Find it: mostly in serums that combine other antioxidants, such as vitamin C and vitamin E
Flavonoids: a type of plant extract (available in many different plants) with great antioxidant benefits.
Usage: additionally, they've also been shown to have anti-inflammatory benefits and help in slowing aging changes in our skin. Appear to improve collagen and, to a lesser degree, elasticity, roughness, and skin hydration (Milady)
Find it: found in berries, citrus fruits, cocoa, green tea, parsley, red wine, and soybean. Flavonoids will often be found together in formulations with other antioxidants in serums or creams
Humectants
Used in cosmetic formulations to increase the skin’s moisture content. Humectants are considered moisturizers.
Hyaluronic acid: it's a moisturizer that naturally occurs in the skin. It's key in keeping the skin healthy. However, benefits for topical use will depend on the formulation, the climate you're in, and other products in your routine. It's become extremely popular, but it's not for everyone!
Usage: besides from helping moisturize your skin, it's actually a great plumper! I recommend using this whenever skin needs an extra boost in appearance
Find it: nowadays, it's pretty much everywhere. But most typically in moisturizers and serums
Glycerin: quite an underrated ingredient. It's been quite researched because of great hydrating capacity
Usage: does a great job in helping the skin retain moisture
Find it: it's also in many different products, but especially important in moisturizers and serums (but seriously, it can be everywhere: cleansers, toners, masks)
Other humectants: honey, urea, sorbitol (and many others!)
Retinoids
A family of ingredients derived from vitamin A, alternatively called retinol, retinyl esters, retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid, etc (depending on the constitution). Extremely well researched, retinoids play an important role in repairing damaged and photodamaged skin. The OG ingredient, probably the one most recommended by dermatologists. There’s a lot to say about them, but here’s a couple of things to note:
You can find retinol in over the counter products (will be less irritating)
Prescription-strength is retinoic acid (also known as tretinoin)
Usage: truly a multi-purpose ingredient. Increases cell turnover (exfoliation), stimulates collagen, evens out pigmentation, and tightens the skin. Used for both aging concerns as well as acne
Find it: gels, serums, oils, moisturizers, masks. You may even find it in cleansers, but I wouldn't recommend that
Peptides
There's a broad range of different peptides that can be found in cosmetic products. They each work differently and have varying purposes. Peptides help strengthen the skin's building blocks
Usage: increases skin elasticity, smoothness, improves the appearance of wrinkles, repairs damaged tissue, and reduces inflammation. There are claims that peptides can activate collagen production
Find it: serums, moisturizers. They work even better when combined with other ingredients, so you'll notice products are usually not just a peptide product
Niacinamide
Vitamin B3. a conditioning agent that helps smooth skin. But it's extremely versatile, so you'll find it in many formulations and used for different conditions. It's very well tolerated by most, which is one of the reasons it's gotten so popular
Usage: improves dry and flaky skin, restores suppleness, diminishes the appearance of pores, improves uneven skin tone, regulates sebum production
Find it: everywhere! Toners, serums, leave-on masks, moisturizers. It works really well with other ingredients, so you will often see it paired in other formulations
Ceramides
Naturally occurring in our skin, ceramides are mostly found in the top layers of our skin and help protect the skin barrier and reduce water loss content in our skin.
Usage: mostly used for their moisturizing benefits, ceramides are great for sensitive, rough, dry, and sun-damaged skin as they help ensure a good function of the skin barrier sensitive, scaly, rough, dry, aged, and sun-damaged skin. Products with ceramides will usually plump and smooth the appearance of your skin, but also reduce sensitivity (because of the protective layer)
Find it: mostly in moisturizing creams
Pigment correcting
Most ingredients used to treat pigment concerns do so by helping to regulate melanocyte activity (the cells that cause melanin—pigment).
Hydroquinone: this is usually considered the OG of skin discoloration treatments. There's extensive research as an effective and safe treatment for discoloration. Hydroquinone is also a potent antioxidant! It works by blocking the chemical pathway that produces the pigment, melanin.
Usage: skin brightening and lightening (so for dark spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and most notably melasma)
Find it: typically on prescription creams, but can also be found over the counter
Despite the fear around it, it's perfectly safe. However, it's best when used following the recommendations and guidance of a derm or professional
Concentrations: over the counter in 2% and prescription 4%
Kojic acid: a tyrosinase inhibitor (reduces the enzyme tyrosinase from overproduction to avoid excessive pigment on the skin). It's also an antioxidant!
The downside is that it can be very unstable. But it's been more widely used and replacing hydroquinone in over the counter in many products
Usage: will help with brightening the skin when formulated correctly
Concentrations: 1–4% are needed for response and products should be used twice daily for two months
Find it: creams, gels, masks, etc. Most effective when combined with other ingredients
Oils
Currently, face oils are extremely popular. You see a new product coming out constantly and they all claim to be the newest life-changing or miracle-working oil out there. And oils can definitely be great, as well as a versatile ingredient. But they're not all created equal and there's a lot of confusion and misinformation out there. So let’s break it down
Essential oils: this is way too big of a topic to be summarized effectively, but let's start off by acknowledging they're quite controversial. Some people swear by them and claim that they are all you need for a healthy lifestyle. But the fact is, essential oils can be extremely irritating and can cause major allergic reactions!
Mostly used as fragrance, but many people also use them directly on the skin for their specific properties (I would caution you against this)
When formulated correctly, some essential oils have been shown to have specific benefits
Tea tree: can be a helpful anti-inflammatory and has some antibacterial properties. For acne, there’s also some credible published information showing it to be effective as a topical disinfectant for killing the bacteria that can cause pimples. But it can also be quite irritating so proceed with caution! Avoid using directly on the skin and always dilute it before using.
Chamomile: has moderate antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, and studies indicate it may have potent anti-inflammatory action
Fragrant oils, such as lavender, eucalyptus, or any type of citrus or mint can be quite irritating to the skin (Paula Begoun)
Plant oils: or non-fragrant oils, are used to address dry skin or an impaired skin barrier. Different ones will have specific benefits and they range in how comedogenic they are. Many will be rich in antioxidants or will be great fatty acids that can help repair the skin barrier. For best results, a blend of different oils will give you a broader range of benefits
Examples and ones I generally like for most people (acne-safe) include jojoba, rosehip, sunflower, safflower seed.
If acne is not a concern, you can also try evening primrose, almond oil, avocado oil, argan, etc.
Mineral oil:
It's often feared as a carcinogen but this isn't true. Petrolatum and mineral oils is highly refined and processed to remove any toxic compounds and it's completely safe!
Sunscreen
BIG TOPIC. Let's summarize: nothing else in your routine matters if you're not protecting your skin from the sun.
With sunscreen, you're protecting from UVA and UVB rays (A=aging, B=burn). And both types of rays play a role in cancer as well.
SPF:
Higher SPF usually means that the product is thicker and greasier. For many, it's uncomfortable and this leads to the decreased application of the product. It's best to use a lower SPF that you use enough of and that you're willing to reapply
Broad-spectrum: this is separate from the SPF rating but very important, as this determines protection against UVA rays (aging rays)
Europe, Asia, and Oceania have specific UVA rating systems, such as PA++, Boots star rating, and PPD.
There are two main categories of ingredients and plenty of options to choose from these, let's break it down:
Chemical or organic sunscreens
Tend to give higher protection (you'll see even up to SPF 100 with these) and tend to stay longer and rub off less
Can be more irritating
Tend to be more elegant formulations
Physical, mineral, or inorganic sunscreens
Formulas tend to be greasier and thicker which means oilier
Can leave a white cast
Bottom line: use the type of sunscreen that you like best (the one you enjoy applying, works well with your skin, doesn't cause irritation, and gives you broad-spectrum protection).
Don't be afraid of sunscreen. You're more at risk for cancer if you don't use it than of anything else that marketers have been creating fear around (there's not enough evidence for endocrine disruption)
In general, and this is making too many assumptions and not considering individual needs, most skincare routines will benefit from having antioxidants and exfoliants. As well as maintaining a healthy skin barrier by staying moisturized. Additionally, it's important to stimulate collagen production (as this naturally decreases with age). So you can play around with the different ingredients from each “category” and mix and match until you find the products that work for you!
P.S. Listen to your skin
No one ingredient can achieve all on its own: products are usually formulated with different ingredients together (to boost efficacy but also to make your life easier)
You don’t need to have ALL of these ingredients in your skincare. Find the ones that work best for your skin and stick to a simple, yet effective routine
Knowledge is power, but as a consumer, you don’t need to know EVERYTHING. If a product is working for you, that’s all you need to pay attention to (unless you want to dive deeper)
Sources referenced:
Milady Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary by M. Varina Michalun and Joseph C. Dinardo
Paula’s Choice Cosmetic Dictionary
Collab between @RanellaMD & @charlotteparler on peptides